Mene & Moy

For a while now we have been looking to introduce a new medical grade skincare brand into our clinic, after months of tests and trials we have finally chosen Mene & Moy.

 A brand that focuses its interests into 2 steps, revitalising the skin in a morning and exfoliating it on an evening. The Brand bases itself around ingredients that have proven themselves within the skincare industry; Vitamin C and Glycolic Acid.

Along with homecare products including a 30% glycolic moisturiser the brand also provides an array of skin peels and resurfacers.

 

If you are looking to change you skincare routine or simply add in some active products then there will be a product for you within this range, whether you concern is acne, dehydration or the endless tale of aging it wont let you down!

Over the following weeks I will be blogging about the individual products and treatments with both steps by steps and before and after photos.

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is one of the mostly widely used acids within skincare, as a derivative of sugar cane it has been around for many years. Glycolic Acid is the smallest AHA molecule, because of its small molecular size it has the ability to penetrate the skin.

Essentially Glycolic Acid is an exfoliator, however they way it works is much more advanced than your average scrub. Old dead skin cells that sit on the surface of the skin are held together by binding lipids, Glycolic Acid breaks the bond holding the skin cells and the lipids together in turn desquamating the old dead cells. Glycolic Acid is often described as a PAC man eating its way through the skin cells.

The removal of the epidermal cells forces the stimulation of new cells to be produced within the dermal layer, Glycolic Acid can be used in a variety of ways; from small percentages in products to high percentages in skin peels.

Daily use of Glycolic Acid products will help to keep the skin smooth and radiant by reducing the build up of old dead skin cells. In order for a product to be beneficial it is advised that they contain between 15 & 30 percent, it is normal to experience a tingling sensation once applied.

Glycolic Acid treatments are successful at treating fine lines and wrinkles, thickened skin, superficial scarring and dull sallow skin. It is also a suitable treatment for those people who want a ‘freshen up’ to their skin. Glycolic treatments come in many forms the most successful are peels containing between 30 and 70 percent Glycolic acid.

TCA Peel step by step

What is a chelated TCA ?

Traditional Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA) is applied to the skin in a liquid form, incorrect use of this liquid can provoke unwanted damage to the epidermal and dermal layers of the skin. Chelated TCA is combined with a product called silica; found within clay this makes it much safer to work with. Chelating the TCA prevents rapid penetration of the acid molecules into the dermal layer of the skin, instead it attracts ions with the skin cells.

What does a chelated TCA treat ?

• increases collagen production by stimulating the healing process 
• improves tone & texture of the skin 
• reduce small open pores
• reduce fine lines & wrinkles
• reduce thickening of the skin

Step 1 

The skin is thoroughly cleansed with a glycolic acid cleanser.

This ensures any dirt, debris or make-up is removed from the skin. 

Step 2

An Alpha Beta Complex gel, containing glycolic and salicylic acid is applied to the skin.

This is left on the skin for only a few minutes, until there is visible erythema (redness).

The gel is then removed with damp gauze swabs.

Step 3

The chelated TCA is applied to the skin using a fan brush, even coverage is important.

The TCA is left on the skin for 2 minutes.

The client will begin to feel heat on the surface of their skin, this can become intense heat and a fan will be used if necessary.

The product is gently removed from the skin using damp gauze swabs.

Ice cold compress are the applied to the skin and left for several minutes to reduce the heat.

Step 4

After the skin has cooled and no longer feels warm finishing products are applied to the skin. These products are  to protect the skin form UV damage and to stop any transdermal water loss occurring.

Over the next few days the skin will begin to feel tight and will darken in colour.

Around 5 days later the skin wil begin to peel this can occur for up to 7-10 days.

It is essential that a specific home care is followed.



https://www.elements.org.uk/category/anti-ageing-treatments/chemical-skin-peels/tca-salicylic-acid-peel/285/dermaquest-tca-7-sal

Chemical Skin Resurfacers ... The future of facials?

The word chemical always makes treatments seem worse than what they are, when were talking about resurfacers the 'chemical' does not refer to the ingredient itself but to how it works. A chemical resurfacer is the opposite to mechanical resurfacers such as microdermabrasion, mechanical resurfacers consist of an abrasive tool or product to remove dead skin cells from the surface of our skin this can include facial exfoliating products that contain rough beads. They buff away dead skin cells and work in a similar way to sand paper.

Chemical resurfacers work by using acids, many of which are plant derivatives. When applied to the skin they break the chemical bonds between old cells working like a PAC man breaking down the surface layers, at the same time stimulating cell renewal.

Chemical resurfacers can feel quite irritating on the skin but this generally only lasts for around 5-10 minutes, the irritation is definitely worth it for the results. Not only do the acids used in these treatments exfoliate the skin they also treat skin concerns for example, salicylic acid cuts through oil cleaning out pores and reducing acne breakouts, lactic acid hydrates whilst lighting and brightening the skin, kojic acid reduces pigmentation.

There are many different acids used within resurfacers, this means that treatment courses can be tailored to suit your specific skin needs and more importantly get the results that you want!

Gone are days of fluffy facials chemical resurfacers will be at the top of everyone's list for a skin pick me up .